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Archive for the ‘New Kitchen Cabinets’ Category

5 reasons to take countertop laminates for granite

Monday, May 16th, 2011

If you covet granite countertops and aren’t deterred by their price and maintenance, go for it! But if the look of granite is what’s important, achieve that champagne look on a beer pocketbook.

A visit to a stone and tile retailer reveals granite samples of breath-taking beauty—and prices to match. One-inch thick slabs of solid granite needed for kitchen countertops are heavy, brittle, and require expertise in manufacture and installation. Expect to pay (gulp!) $45 to $200 per square foot installed. Alternately, quarter-inch thick granite tiles cost roughly $6 to $20 per square foot uninstalled, and ept people might save by tackling granite tile installation themselves.

“Okay,” you think. “I don’t have to have the veined granite. The more uniform granite will do.” But some unveined granite is sometimes difficult to cut, so you may not save money that way, either.

Time to regroup. You can start saving for your granite dream, if you’re into delayed gratification. But if you want or need new countertops fairly soon, give laminates an open-minded look. Laminates have some wonderful advantages.

  1. Patterns and surfaces: Laminate patterns are often photographs of genuine stone under a tough plastic laminate surface. Some granite-looking laminates have the glossy surface seen on finished granite, while others have a less glossy luster. Since the limitations and idiosyncrasies of natural stone aren’t an issue with laminates, you can choose from slate, sandstone, marble and terrazzo looks, as well as granite. Remember that the genuine granite samples at a retailer won’t exactly match the slabs at the slab display stone yard, but laminates are more visually consistent.
  2. Edges: Today’s laminates can have rolled or routed edges similar to many real granite countertops.
  3. Maintenance: Yes, you can put hot objects on granite, while you cannot cut or set hot objects on laminate. But wiping off a laminate’s surface dirt with a sudsy sponge is all the normal maintenance required. Granite (and similar stones) should be sealed monthly to keep a uniform shine and avoid staining some stones.
  4. Cost: Here’s where laminate really shines. You often need more than one real granite slab to create your countertops, so you’ll pay for expensive wasted material. Creating laminate countertops is often within the scope of a handy homeowner with a modest wood-working shop. If not, manufacture and installation are only about $10 to $30 per square foot — and you buy only what you need.
  5. Time: Expect your laminate countertops to be manufactured and installed much more quickly than granite.

Visitors may compliment your “real granite” countertops. They look that good. Just smile and murmur, “I love them too!”

Drawer construction (kitchen cabinet quality exposed!)

Monday, May 9th, 2011

Check out this joint

It’s easy to get star-struck by glamorous kitchen cabinets while overlooking their construction quality. Want to know the hidden secrets of cabinet craftsmanship? It’s in the joints. Drawer joint construction usually indicates the overall quality of  kitchen cabinets. As with the human body, if the joints are weak, a pretty face means little over time.

There are three major types of Drawer construction. drawer joints– butt-jointed; rabbeted and/or dadoed; and dove-tailed. The comparative strength of the three major drawer joint types is obvious if you imagine this: Challenge someone to pull your arms apart with your hands in one of three positions–palms together, fingers straight up; palms in opposite directions, opposing fingertips clutched; or palms together, fingers intertwined and bent. The greater the overlay, the stronger the resistance, right? Cabinet drawer construction is similar:

Butt-jointed: In less expensive drawer construction, boxes will have particle board or plywood sides with corners that butt flat against each other. They’ll be stapled or nailed together. The drawer bottom may also be butted flat underneath the box sides and stapled or nailed to them. Better box bottoms slide into a groove on the insides of the drawer box.

Nailed Butt Joint

Nailed Butt Joint

Rabbeted and/or dadoed: A  rabbet is a notch, cut along the end of a board to receive another board. A dado cut is groovy, man! It is a recess cut along a board to receive a perpendicular board. While stronger than butt joints because they can be glued or fastened along two or three sides, the lip of the rabbet or dado cut can eventually weaken and snap off.

Rabbet Joint

Rabbet Joint

Dove tailed: No, it doesn’t fly! Dovetail joints usually indicate solid hardwood drawer boxes. Both ends of corners are notched by machine so that the notches are fan-shaped (like a dove’s tail.) They can only be joined by laying one notched edge atop the adjoining piece and tapping them together. Because the interior end of the notch is wider than the outer edge, the boards can’t pull apart. Dove-tailed drawers speak of finer quality materials and workmanship throughout a cabinet. Classy!

Dove Tailed Joint

Dove Tailed Joint

It’s fine if the cabinet case itself has particle board panels covered with wood or laminate veneers. It’s the drawers that take the heaviest wear and tear in cabinetry. Verify how they’re constructed to get the best cabinet drawer construction for your budget. You can bet that the cabinets seen at famoushomeowners.com are dovetailed. Drop by for a demo at your home building supply or cabinet store. And remember, forget the dazzling face. Cabinets are a long-term relationship.

Measuring Kitchen Countertops for Replacement

Friday, December 10th, 2010

Whether you’re doing the work yourself, or hiring a contractor to install new kitchen countertops, you’ll need to plot out the arrangement of your current counters, measuring as accurately as you can to help determine the materials cost for the project. Most major home improvement stores have graph paper charts that you can take home for measuring kitchen countertops.

In short, you draw a layout of your entire kitchen area, including the countertop sections, the appliance locations and dimensions, as well as the island and sink positions. You’ll use a tape measure to take readings of the distance from the end of the end of the section of the countertop to the wall, or from the end to the next section of kitchen counter. Then, you’ll need to record the depth, measuring from the wall to the front edge of the counters.

Don’t forget to measure the height and length of the backsplashes, too. It’s basic math: multiplying length times depth, then adding all the countertop area together to get your total number of square inches. The next part of the equation is to divide total square inches by 144 to get the total for square footage. Then it becomes a matter of multiplying the price per square foot for the countertops you’re evaluating against total footage needed to cost your project materials.

Using Kitchen Countertop Templates

Countertop manufacturers often have their own templates to take home for measurement. Laminate Tops has a chart and directions on its website. And Home Depot has an online graph to print to paper, along with concise instructions for charting and computing prices for your project.

Lighting Up Your Kitchen Cabinets

Saturday, December 4th, 2010

I love having plenty of light in the kitchen, especially when I’m preparing meals. But I really dislike high energy bills. So when I’m not creating a lavish dinner or dessert, I have my work surfaces dimmed. Other times, I like ambient light in my kitchen and, come nighttime, I love using energy efficient under-counter and under-cabinet lights to give the room a homey glow.

Linear strip, LED cabinet lights are relatively easy to install. They provide a nice affect, and won’t raid your utility budget every month. According to the Home Decoration Collection blog, puck lights might be more appropriate for illuminating the contents of big floor, recessed cabinets used for storing large pots, pans, and bakeware. Installing task lighting–using new energy-wise compact fluorescent bulbs–can work well here where you need lights that are switched on only when you have to look around.

Since not everyone knows how to design lighting for kitchen areas, I’d recommend the simple, but elegant pre-made design kits that coordinate with your existing cabinets.

Cabinet Lights Install in an Hour

Builder Tim Carter loves installing under-cabinet lights in the recessed, 7/8 -inch-deep surface beneath common sized, conventional kitchen cabinets. That way the lighting fixtures won’t protrude out from under the ledge.

To use the low-energy, 12-volt lighting systems, you may need to have your contractor install a 120-volt household alternating-current-converter to power the lights. The size of the transformer depends on the number of lights on each circuit.

There are so many choices available, I’m sure you can find just the right fixture to provide practical and dramatic kitchen lighting.

Avoiding Common DIY Cabinet Painting Mistakes

Sunday, November 28th, 2010

Possibly the biggest mistake homeowners make in painting or refinishing kitchen cabinets is in not knowing–or accepting–that they’re in over their heads. Blunders in prepping cabinets for paint may not necessarily be irreparable. But they can be costly.

If the doors and cabinet faces are not stripped and sanded, the cabinets may end up looking worse than they did when you decided to do the work yourself and save money. It’s usually better to remove the hardware and doors ahead of time and paint them in a ventilated space outside the kitchen. If you insist on doing the work in the kitchen, you’ll really end up frustrated if you don’t prep the floors, counters, and other kitchen areas against dust, drips, and spatters.

Know the Process Completely

One homeowner, writing for the Asheville Remodeling Resource site, describes the disastrous effect of rolling out primer with a low nap microfiber product, instead of using a high density foam roller. The result: a bumpy surface that had to be corrected before even adding the paint.

If you’re considering using paint or stain on your wood cabinets, consider a high-quality brush. The difference in cost over a chintzy brush more than pays you back by creating a uniform finish.

For those with cabinet drawers mounted on side tracks, Lowe’s recommends that you remove the faces, rather than pull out the entire drawer set. It’s easier to paint the faces separately rather than risk gumming up the mechanism.

Another common homeowner mistake is in not sanding the primed drawer fronts and doors with a super-fine, 600-grit sandpaper. If you want the paint to hold, you need to prep the surface!

Make a New Backsplash Part of Your Cabinet Project

Sunday, November 21st, 2010

Putting a new face or paint on your kitchen cabinets may change the look of your kitchen. Isn’t that the idea? That’s fine, if the cabinets are now well coordinated with the kitchen paint, countertops, and flooring. But what about the kitchen backsplashes? Many a homeowner skimps on treating the backsplashes as part of their overall kitchen remodeling project. The end result may be like having a wonderful smile, with a front tooth that’s missing.

Backsplash materials come in an inexhaustible selection of materials, colors, and patterns. I always suggest that you coordinate the colors and materials with your overall kitchen color schemes, but never compromise on ease of maintenance. After all, the backsplash is for catching spattering cooking sauce, dust from flour and other ingredients and, sad to say, grease and grime.

Backsplash Materials that Complement New Kitchen Cabinets

Personally, I favor tile backsplashes for their ease of installation and trouble-free maintenance. They clean up with soap and water. Like any other part of kitchen cleanup, you should get on the splashes and spills right away before they cake up. Ceramic tiles are also among the most affordable selections.

Look around your home improvement store and you’ll find backsplash materials in glass, granite, stainless steel and other metals. Lowes sells bronze backsplash tiles that are really attractive–if they go along with your overall décor. They’re put up with tape or adhesives especially created for mounting them.

Better Homes and Gardens has ideas for using recycled sea shells that were cast into molds of concrete and stamped into the tile surface. Stunning. Or, you can use recycled bricks for a backsplash if you’re into green, repurposed materials.

Considering the Use of MDF in Your Cabinets

Friday, November 12th, 2010

Medium density fiberboard (MDF) doors are considered mid-range in the cost of kitchen cabinet refacing products. These seamless products, manufactured from wood fibers that are glued together with PVA glue under extreme heat, are less pricey than wood veneer or solid wood. Unlike doors with seams, MDF won’t crack under the range of temperatures in your kitchen.

The materials are manufactured to resemble stained or natural woods, although they typically are not manufactured with a faux wood grain finish. Another plus for MDF products is that they’re very easy to maintain. Thermofoil doors have their share of enthusiasts and detractors.

Deciding on Your New Cabinet Look

First, you’ll need to decide whether you should reface–or replace–your cabinets. Hiring a contractor to help you decide will take some discernment on your part. Ask yourself if the prospective contractor only represents one kind of replacement and is keen on selling you on something you may not need.

Be sure to call in at least two contractors to determine how much it will cost to have the right solution installed in your home. If you decide on MDF, be sure your workspace is well-ventilated and put on a mask or set of goggles if you’re walking into the work area. The urea formaldehyde released into the environment during cutting or sanding can be a serious irritant.

That’s why you might insist that any MDF you select for your kitchen cabinets is completely installed and painted before the work begins, rather than during the project. Paint is a good sealant against urea formaldehyde gasses. Ask any potential contractor about the process as part of getting your written estimate.

Protect Your Investment in Kitchen Cabinets

Sunday, November 7th, 2010

Depending on your choice, your kitchen cabinets are faced with solid wood, wood veneer, paper, engineered melamine, or vinyl . Veneers may be wrapped around a core of medium-density fiberboard (MDF). While everything decays from hard use, you can extend the life of your kitchen cabinet facing with proper upkeep.

Responding to spills, splashes, light damage, loose hardware and other natural enemies of wood products can make all the difference between long-life and the need for cabinet refacing. You can clean and safeguard cabinet doors without having to spend a lot of money on solvent cleaners that only end up harming the wood and veneers.

Do’s and Don’ts of Kitchen Cabinet Care

Amazingly enough, these do’s and don’ts are generally the right way to respond to wear and tear for all cabinet styles.

Do: respond immediately when food or liquids are spilled or splashed on your cabinets. The longer they coat the facing, the more potential damage they pose. Blot spills with paper towels, a sponge, and warm soapy dishwater.

Don’t: swab the spills with scouring surface sponges, cleaning pads, and harsh cleaning chemicals. While ammonia or chlorine products work well on tough stains on other materials, they most likely will harm the finish of your kitchen cabinets.

Do: remove grease and grime as soon as you see it. If you allow it to build up, you may put yourself in line for a thorough cleaning with tsp or another safe product after taking down the doors and drawer fronts.

Don’t: use an abrasive sink cleaner or bleach product to remove grease, finger or hand-prints. If your cabinets are made of finished wood, only use furniture products expressly designed for cleaning them.

DIY: Replacing Kitchen Cabinet Doors

Sunday, October 31st, 2010

For times when you don’t need to install entire new sets of cabinets, you can transform your kitchen by replacing existing cabinet doors. If you’re thinking of doing the job yourself, you can do an eight-foot run of lower cabinets in four or five hours using a drill, clamps, screws, masking tape, cabinet doors, and new hardware (handles, knobs, and hinges).

Home Depot has a pictorial review of the procedure online, and they make it seem simple–if you know your way around home improvement projects and can use simple power tools. The first step is putting the hinges on the new doors securely, using two for standard sized cabinets, and three hinges for doors 30 inches or longer.

Masking tape is the indispensable tool in lining out the top face frame rail and marking the hinge locations along the edge of the face frame. You mark the location tape for drilling the holes and after starting pilot holes with the drill, you strip off the tape and anchor the new door with the screws. You put in the hardware last.

Using Care with High End Woods

If you plan to replace cherry cabinet doors, you may want to call in a cabinet contractor to protect your investment. Don’t put cheesy or cheap hardware on expensive wood, please!

Some homeowners are choosing eco-friendly cabinet doors for their replacements. Bamboo and cork are among the favorites in this new category. Cork is the more flexible material in terms of matching the stain color and feel of your original design.

We offer a great review of the varieties of door styles, stains, and woods available if you need some fresh ideas.

Kitchen Cabinet Colors and What They Say About You

Saturday, October 23rd, 2010

Kitchen designers, interior decorators, and color consultants agree that the color of your kitchen cabinets, flooring, backsplashes, and wall paint say a lot about you. But that’s as far as their agreement goes. I should think that they’d agree that faded or chipped paint on your cabinets does say that you don’t much care what people think, or that you lack sufficient funds to even repaint them.

Each year, home improvement writers trundle out a color trends list, and I love reading it–but mostly to gather great ideas or see what I don’t like. Cabinet color trends for 2010 include the use of gray for its neutrality and ability to give relief from brighter colors.

Earth tones like beige, light green, and warm browns are also in vogue this year for their subtlety and for the way they complete a “green” kitchen with bamboo counters and cork flooring. Spot splashes of bold reds, greens, yellow, and blues are also popular these days, but they shouldn’t overwhelm the entire look.

Noticing How Cabinet Colors Feel

Better Homes and Gardens says that yellow is a warm color that can add light to a kitchen on the dimmer, north wall of a house. A buttery yellow tone is trending for Tuscan kitchen themes and distressed paint effects. A dusty blue paint can soften the look of your kitchen, complementing white walls, backsplashes, or ceilings.

Your colors should also match the cabinet styles in your home. For example, country kitchen cabinets typically are stained to show their natural wood colors, although bright yellows or glass doors may be your favorite choice.

Look at lots of photos and examples at home improvement stores to get color ideas.

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