Even if your countertop looks okay, there may be small, telltale signs of wear that deserve your attention. A small chip in the laminate, a burned patch, a minute edge that has started to peel—all can be indicators of mounting woes that after a while add up to trouble. Don’t wait. If you can take preventative or minor repair measures now, you can extend the life of your countertop.

Let’s say you’ve found a slight bubbling section. It may not be overtly obvious to everyone else; but you know it’s there. If you’re lucky, and extremely careful, you can re-activate the original adhesive by covering the section with a pillowcase and iron the bubble down with a clothes iron—set on the lowest setting. Once it’s heated, the surface can be pressed into place with a brick or a stack of books, but keep the pillowcase in place.

For small chips or cracks, try laminate-repair paste, available from your home improvement store. Take a scrap of the countertop (you should have kept extra laminate) with you to match up the color of the paste.  If you find that sections are curled back and peeling, try the iron-heat process first and if the adhesive won’t engage, than use contact cement and press down the sections with books or another heavy object. Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol before pressing down with the iron.

When It’s Too Late
If your countertop is beyond simple repair, you may want to start planning for replacements.  Depending on your budget, there are options in materials from granite, engineered stone, new laminates, or ceramic tile. Designs, colors, and options may have changed radically since your original countertops were installed.

If you’re not wiping down your cabinets regularly, you may be saving up grease, soap, food residue, and bacteria for a rainy day. Finishes and solutions vary widely, so it’s always wiser to use the least caustic cleaner available and make up for it with some good, old fashioned elbow grease.  Non-alkaline soaps made for dishes or human hand care mean less chances of abrasion. Never—never use an abrasive scouring soap or soap pad on a wood kitchen cabinet.

Wash out cabinet interiors with a dust cloth (chamois) or a soft clean rag and soapy water.  Never scrub your cabinet doors or glass with a used cloth that may have kitchen or bath cleaners with harsh chemical deposits; you just might be transferring them to your cabinet. Clean glass doors with a safe window detergent or cleaner.

Wood Cabinets Deserve Care
Commercial wood oil products or olive oil works great in restoring a warm wood finish.  Again, avoid the use of any cloth or used towel that may contain leftover abrasives or lint. Use a preservative or conditioner made for your kind of wood at least twice a month. Take out your glassware or dishes and work it in with a little muscle.

While you’re at it, clean your cabinet hardware, too. Remove hinges, pulls, and knobs and let them soak an hour in soapy water. Wipe off any residue when dry and polish it up to a shine. You’ll find a polish made just for the kind of metal or ceramics used in your hardware.

If you really want to clean up and add pizazz to your cabinets, replace the hardware if it begins to show wear or looks completely out of date with your current motif.

If you can’t stand the way your cabinets look or if their appearance brings down the entire appeal of your kitchen, you’re probably at the crossroads.  Before making any decisions, are your current cabinets working properly and really need a face-lift or do you need to toss it all out and start over?

Evaluating your options isn’t as confusing as it looks at the outset.

But there are three pertinent questions to answer before leaping into any quick solution:

• Are you planning to stay in this house or sell it in the near future?
• Have you already painted the kitchen, added new countertops, and window treatments?
• Can the cabinets be improved by a fresh laminate, new hardware, attractive knobs, hinges, panels, and drawer fronts?

Considering a Refacing Makeover

There’s a good possibility that you can save half the cost in having your cabinets refaced than if you try and replace them entirely. Many homeowners remark that a refacing project also allows them to choose “green” materials that they’ve been wanting for a while.

Once you settle on the idea of refacing, then the variables are really about your choice in materials and costs.  New veneers can cut remodeling costs by upwards of 60 percent of the cost in replacements.  But at the same time, you can secure more durable and attractive coverings that extend the life of your cabinets.

Another thing to consider is that refacing projects can be modified to suit your décor or motif, right down to antique or distressed designs.

You can start collecting information by contacting cabinet contractors and visiting showrooms before locking yourself into a project that busts your budget.

Many of today’s consumers are as interested in finding environmentally friendly building materials as they are discovering the best products for their money. Of course, there’s no single, simple answer.

The Environmental Protection Agency has identified Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) as a major contributor to hazardous indoor air quality. So if you’re concerned about your family’s health as well as the long-term health of the environment, you may want to look at countertops made of materials low in VOCs.

VOCs enter your home as gases. They’re found in paints, cleaning products, furnishings, and solvents.  It’s easy to get overwhelmed by consumer stories and investigative reports. And so-called “green” materials can cost more of your green dollars than conventional products.  I wanted to alert you of one material I’ve been reading about widely: Terrazzo.  (Remember:  I’m not endorsing anything.)

Countertops Materials and LEED Certifications

The U.S. Building Council has developed a certification system for evaluating building materials for toxicity, especially VOCs.  LEED also measures water and energy efficiency, CO2 emissions, and building design and construction practices.

Concrete is a common choice, but it’s not considered a “green” countertop material. However it’s a long-lasting product that can be crushed and recycled, and when sealed properly, resists bacteria and does not typically emit VOCs. More recently, environmental builders are recommending terrazzo countertops and paper composites.

Terrazzo is comprised of 95 percent recycled glass and crushed stone, bound together by cement or epoxy. Sealed properly, it is durable and if bound by cement has a strong green rating. Epoxy, however, can release dangerous phthalate vapors. If you’re shopping around for an attractive, environmentally sound countertop material, have a look at terrazzo.

It’s not surprising that homeowners create troubles when they re-paint their kitchen cabinets without first preparing their workspace and materials. If you don’t mark the cabinet parts first, you just might spend frustrating hours trying to match them up when re-installing them. And, if you don’t carefully prepare your kitchen workspace, you’ll end up with a nasty clean-up job.

So, before you rush headlong into self-inflicted misery, clear out your cabinets and remove nearby small appliances.  And, by all means, get everything off of your kitchen countertops. You’re going to paint your cabinet doors and drawer fronts in a separate, clean workspace with ample ventilation.  However, if you’re going to paint the boxes themselves, you’ll need to:

•    Mask windows, walls, and backsplashes with painter tape
•    Drape your sink and countertops
•    And lay a drop-cloth on the floor.

Marking Cabinet Parts for Assembly

Numbering each cabinet door and drawer front is essential prep work. Use a small tag from a strip of masking tape to number each cabinet and corresponding door, and each drawer front with corresponding drawer.  I like the idea of putting the same identifying number on a zip-lock bag and put the screws, pulls, and other hardware in it.  That’s a great way of creating sets for re-installation.

Once the doors and drawer fronts are tagged and the hardware is off, you can begin the prep work of washing the cabinet parts with soap or TSP.

Now you can patch the dents or cracks sand with 120-grit paper to ready them for paint. It sounds like a simple process, and it is. Only poor planning can create a nightmare when it’s time to put everything back where it belongs!

Ever wonder why most commercial cooking establishments use stainless steel for their countertops?  Durable and easy-to-maintain stainless steel is the material of choice for battling bacteria and providing protection for people who have sensitivity to kitchen chemicals. And, when combined with chromium and nickel, stainless steel countertop materials for residential use can resist stains.

Countertops manufactured for home use are typically made of 16-guage stainless steel. Scratches can be rubbed out and then finished with nonabrasive scouring pads. Stainless has been around since 1913, but has been combined with finishes that create bold and attractive patterns for your countertops. You can also install stainless-steel backsplashes to complement the countertops, stove hoods, and metal appliances.

Prices vary from $50 to $75 a square foot, installation extra.

Stainless steel is not necessarily limiting. The stainless countertops can also mix well with craftsman or other transitional cabinet styles. The metal is considered non-toxic and can hold up well in use with outdoor stoves and cooking areas.

Metal Countertop Magic

For those who want a warmer appearance, consider copper.  Softer than stainless steel, copper molding or glass inserts can soften the stainless effect. Or going full copper means your countertop will develop a rich patina with age.  It’s also highly resistant to bacteria and, while it scratches, the blemishes can add to the overall appearance of the material. Copper, along with zinc or pewter, can complete the look of a period kitchen.

Copper is also “green” in that it’s recyclable. If you’re performing a complete kitchen makeover, why not combine your choice of countertop metal with the materials for your sinks? The overall appearance creates a stylish, uniform appearance.

If you’ve decided to repaint your kitchen cabinets, you should take precautions to prepare the best possible surface to take the new stain or finish.  The procedure typically requires you to clean the grime and grease from existing cabinets, doors, and drawer fronts. Then, once dry, you can touch up the surface with medium-grade sandpaper.

What if you have dents in the wood? Many woodworkers use a hot iron and moist cloth to raise dents from unfinished wood, but you won’t have that luxury.  You’ll need to patch them up. You’ll find a wood filler at your home improvement store that’s perfect for repairing chips, dents, and dimples.

Some carpenters use an oil-based primer which dries as a shell over open-grained varieties of wood. But in most cases, you’ll need to apply putty before staining.

Choosing Your Cabinet Patching Materials

You’ll find latex-based wood patch products on the market that can do the job nicely, although they’re tougher to clean up after than water-based putty. Patch works only on clean surfaces that are pre-moistened just prior to application. Use less than you think you need at first until you get a hang of the material. Too much putty will blob up and raise the surface, increasing your sanding effort. Also, if you use too small an application, you can add a second patch. Of course, you need the filler to be slightly higher than the level of the surface so it can be sanded smooth.

You may want to take a drawer front to the store to match up the color of the patch, although many products come in a neutral tone.  Meticulous prepping will bear out after in a smooth, attractive paint surface.

The quick answer is absolutely yes. It’s not an endorsement, but an invitation to do all your homework before leaping at any cabinet refacing solution.  Weigh the cost, durability, and maintenance advantages for wood, vinyl, and rigid thermofoil (RTF) laminate.  Compare your cabinet materials for versatility, and resistance to heat, scratching, dents, and scrapes from everyday use.

If money is a large concern, you should know that wood veneer will cost more than plastic laminates and RTF products.  And RTF laminate can be manufactured to look like granite, wood, or marble— at a dozen feet away.

How Does RTF Work?

Rigid thermofoil laminates are pressure-molded in styles that match-up well with plain, traditional kitchen designs. One benefit of the material is that it’s manufactured in a wide variety of colors and textures.

RTF is:
•    Easy to clean with standard kitchen products.
•    Seamless, resistant to mold, mildew, or rot.
•    More sensitive to heat than wood.

What About Wood?

Wood can cost more than 25 percent over the price of other veneer products.  But you do get an attractive surface that can instantly transform your kitchen.  Of course, the price depends on the kind and quality of wood veneer that suits your budget.

Wood treatments are made by sandwiching particle board with a back and face wood veneer. You can choose hardwood and softwood surfaces with matching panels in symmetrical, random, or slip-matched sections. Some manufacturers specialize in exotic veneers with burls, knots, and textured patterns.

When it comes down to it, most homeowners will balance taste and ease of installation and maintenance against the cost. Right?

If you’re having your cabinets refaced, the time is right to examine drawer guides and runners. Over time, the glides can bend out of alignment, causing your drawer to stick on openings or freeze entirely. You can consider having the guides and runners replaced for your most-used drawer in the kitchen: your silverware drawer.

Start by taking all your kitchen drawers for a test drive, noting if the movement of the runners is free and easy.  The point is, why worry about a few dollars here or there in the kitchen renovation budget to ensure that your newly faced storage areas are sturdy, but easy to use?

Replacing Drawer Glides

The step-by-step glide replacement is relatively a simple job. You may have easy release slides, or you may have to pry the drawer out from the roller assembly.  Either way, once you have the slides out, you can remove the glides from cabinets and take a set with you to the home improvement store.

Many carpenters lubricate the runners with silicone or wax to keep things rolling. For older drawer sets and historical replacements, you’re going to need solid wood-working skills. Chances are, if the original wood grooves are out of alignment, you’ll need to run a router to create fresh grooves for the runners.

Before you begin removing hardware, get some colored masking tape. If you lose your way around replacement projects, consider marking each glide and box sides with matching color tape, one color for the left side, and another for the right. The time it takes to mark them can spare hours later removing ill-fit, poorly matched sides and glides. That can get ugly fast.

If your laminate countertop is the worse for wear, it may be time to call in experts to replace it. Laminate countertop replacement projects can be completed in less than half a day, depending on your square footage. There are also kits at home improvement stores and kitchen specialty shops for repairing minor laminate scratches or chips. If you’re uncertain of the extent of damage, ask for free estimates from specialists.

In some cases, new laminate can be applied over the top of your existing countertops; but if your existing laminate coverings are damaged or post-formed, you may need it removed entirely.  If you’re dealing with patching countertop chips or dents, there are laminate polishes that build up over scratches in a few applications.

Some suppliers carry putty repair kits, but you’ll need to match the putty color with the original laminate.  If you call in a contractor to help with repairs, ask about getting a supply of matching putty at the time you have new laminate installed.

Countertop Laminate Replacements

If you want to try the job yourself, be sure to store your replacement laminate at room temperature for several days before beginning. Laminate is sensitive to changing temperatures.  If you have to remove back splashes be sure to protect your walls from prying damage.

Before replacing the countertop laminate you’ll need a spanking clean surface and, if you’re laying laminate over existing covering, you’ll need to scuff up the surface to create good adhesion.

You’ll need a good eye and leveling tool to ensure that your pieces fit imperfections in the surface such as cutouts and sinks. Cutting laminate is typically done with a utility knife, jigsaw, or band saw. Practice on a few extra sheets.